From trails to tails

Standing on the Maungatapu Saddle during an autumn bikepacking trip from Wellington, Alex looked out across a sunlit Maitai Valley towards the sparkling Te Tai-o-Aorere (Tasman Bay).

"I should live here."

The thought arrived unexpectedly, but the feeling was immediate.

Travelling with a friend, the pair had crossed the historic saddle before linking up with a local rider to explore our mountain bike trails.

By the end of the trip, her friend had reached the same conclusion.

"You should move here."

Four months later, she did.

After nearly a decade in Taupō and twelve years building a life in New Zealand, Alex packed up, said goodbye to good friends, both human and canine, and headed south with her dog Coya.

When Alex first moved here, she arrived wide-eyed and ready to ride.

In those early months, the experiences came thick and fast. She bikepacked the Heaphy Track and Old Ghost Road, volunteered at the Dodzy Memorial Enduro heckling riders from inside an inflatable pterodactyl suit, and heli biked Mount Royal in Richmond Forest Park.

"How lucky was I? Those are the kinds of experiences people travel from around the world for."

Three years on, those pinch me moments haven't disappeared. They've simply become part of everyday life. Riding is no longer just something she does. It shapes her weekends, her friendships, and her sense of place. She knows when The Gorge is calling for a weekend mission, when Cable Bay fits the mood, and when only a party hardtail session at Koata Park will do.

"The Gorge is my Disneyland. Some days I'm chasing progression and tackling features that once scared me. Other days, I'm cruising the easier trails and soaking it all in. Then there are the days I decide it's time to line up for the Darkside again."

Then there's Cable Bay. It's become another go-to for Alex, especially when she's craving fast, feature-packed trails and some of the best intermediate to advanced riding in the country.

"Cable Bay is a whole vibe. The trails have so much character, with a real hand-built feel that keeps things interesting from top to bottom. Then you roll into Base Café for a burger and a pint and debrief with the crew. It's hard to beat."

Closer to home, Koata Park has become part of her regular rotation. It's only a ten-minute ride from her front door, and that kind of access has given her an even greater appreciation for the people who make riding in our region possible. She points to the recent work by the Trail Saints and Nelson City Council as a great example of the ongoing effort to make mountain biking more enjoyable and accessible for everyone.

"It's got all kinds of trails... fun, flowy, techy, and when you reach the tops, those views out across the bay make every climb worthwhile."

And when she's craving something a little wilder, the back of Fringed Hill is often where she heads. It feels a world away from town.

It wasn't just the riding that convinced Alex to stick around. It was the people.

The first glimpse came during that bikepacking trip, when a couple of local riders spent days showing her their favourite spots. Since moving here, that sense of belonging has only grown.

Thursday evenings are often spent riding with the Singletrack Sisters, a women's riding group that has become a much-loved part of the local riding scene. Events like Wāhine at Wairoa have also helped her connect with riders from across the South Island.

What Alex loves most is the atmosphere.

"It's a different pace. There are some of the best female riders in New Zealand in the group, but everyone is so welcoming, down-to-earth and encouraging."

Some of Alex's closest friendships in Nelson Tasman began on those rides. The people she met through riding have become an important part of her life, both on and off the bike.

That sense of community extends well beyond organised rides. Whether it's volunteering on trail-building days, chatting at the trailhead, or meeting strangers who stop to pat Coya outside the pub, Alex has found that connections happen easily here.

One local who's made just as many connections as Alex is Coya.

If you've spent time on the trails around here, there's a good chance you've met her. A Rotorua pound rescue pup whose age is anyone's guess. She's settled on eight and we're not arguing.

The former Love Taupō office dog was once a regular on the mountain bike trails too, until a shoulder injury last year brought about an early retirement.

These days she's learned to love the easy life. Described by Alex as introspective, feisty, and something of a grunter, Coya is often found stretched out on her sunny deck overlooking the Maitai Valley and the bay. But she's always up for an easy spin around Koata, an overnight hike through Richmond Forest Park, or a cruisy bikepacking trip when the outdoors calls.

Together, the pair have clocked up some fun adventures. Long weekends exploring Golden Bay, river swims on the Kawatiri (Buller), and a memorable hike up Ben Nevis where Coya experienced snow for the first time.

"Best day of her life. Probably."

Nelson Tasman has a soft spot for dogs, and Coya has made the most of it. Cafés, shops, pubs, parks. She's rarely made to feel unwelcome.

Working in tourism has given Alex a fresh perspective on the place she now calls home. Through her work and involvement with events like the NZ MTB Rally, she's seen plenty of visitors arrive with one idea of Nelson Tasman, only to leave with a completely different one.

"Many are surprised by the sheer variety of experiences packed into such a small area."

It’s easy to see why. With hundreds of kilometres of trails, three national parks, rivers, beaches, mountains and endless backcountry adventures all within easy reach, this corner of New Zealand offers far more than most people expect.

"People arrive expecting technical riding, and we deliver. But the thing that catches most of them off guard is just how much there is beyond that. Trails for every ability, every style, and every season. I've been here three years and I'm not even halfway through my bucket list. Did someone say Kahurangi 500!?"

And once they’ve experienced it for themselves, many start imagining what life here could look like.

Alex understands that feeling better than most.

In recent months, packrafting has joined mountain biking as one of Alex's favourite ways to explore.

From the rivers around Murchison, New Zealand's white water capital, to remote corners of the West Coast, the sport has revealed wild landscapes and introduced Alex to a new group of passionate outdoor people.

For Alex, that's the beauty of life in Nelson Tasman. Every adventure leads to another corner of our region, another connection, and another reason to stay.

"Everything feels remarkably close together, the weather is reliably on our side, and living here never really stops feeling like a holiday."

Three years after standing on the Maungatapu Saddle and imagining a different life, she still occasionally finds herself looking out from a summit towards the bay beyond.

The view is different each time. The feeling isn't.

What started as a bikepacking trip became a community, a lifestyle, and ultimately, a home for both Alex and Coya.